Dodgy Border Guards

Well, where shall we start? How about at the Ukrainian border having to the bribe the guards with cash to let us into their country.

So earlier in the day we realised we didn't have the right paperwork to get into Romania, so we decided to head straight for the Ukraine. We discovered along the road that we needed a Green Card to get in but we also heard we could buy one at the border, so we pushed on. We cleared the Hungarian border control ok and got our first proper stamp in our passports!! Then we drove across no mans land to the Ukraine control where we were greeted by a scary looking soldier who gave us and our car the once over and were directed to a very friendly passport control officer. After much discussion (in broken Ukrainian and English) about whether we needed a green card, Mr P was called around the back door entrance and told 'you make me present, I stamp'!!! Mr P considered knitting him a jumper or making some such gift, but as time was of the essence we gave him some cash (5000 forints = 16 pounds). Then finally after our car was searched by another set of guards, they stamped our passports and let us into the Ukraine.

As we starting driving it felt like we had stepped into a different world all of a sudden. The scenary was stunning as we drove through the hills. Tarmac occasionaly just runs out, even on the motorway! Then the wonderful weather we have been having caught up with us again. We were driving through a huge thunder storm and the heaviest rain we have ever seen. Visiability was very poor and then we got held up in an hour long queue as we passed by a fatal accident involving a Lada and a Kamaz (massive Russian truck). There was not much left of the Lada. The standard of driving is just terrible and we knew it was only a matter of time until we saw something like this.

The plan was to get to Lviv - a city described in the Lonely Planet guide as 'gorgeous and glorious, Lviv knows its next up on the list of hot new Eastern Europeon Destinations'. We crossed a river that had burst its banks and drove through a couple of mudslides (very scary!), and finally made it to the city about 11pm last night and checked into a amazing hotel for two nights so we get time to explore where we are a little more.

On our way to this internet cafe this morning two Mongol Rally teams drove past us and we ran and ran along the street to catch them up. Unfortunately for them they were stopped by the local rozzers, which gave us a chance to catch them. They only drove down a one way street, so no fines for them today! It feels a little like we are in Grand Theft Auto here as we are constantly dodging the police. We have only been stopped once and after smiling sweetly and showing our passports, he let us on our way.

Going a back a bit, the night before last we stayed in a town called Szolnok in Hungary, at a hotel called The Garden Hotel, which was on the river Tisza. We shared the hotel with the Great Britain Canoe and Kayak Racing Team, which was cool.

The truck is going really well - the oil leak seems to have fixed itself althouth we are still checking it every petrol stop. Both wiper stalks have snapped, but we have splinted them and fixed them back together with cable ties - if they worked through last nights storms then they will work through anything! It went well through the water too - we were in quite deep at a couple of points (above the wheels) and it kept going. Fingers crossed!

Today we are going to explore Lviv, have a day off of driving and have a Roman sauna in our hotel tonight. Tomorrow we will leave and head for the capital, Kiev, and sample our first real Chicken Kiev! Hope they don't have bird flu there!!!